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  1. #1
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    Bad experience with forged aluminum lugs

    Got a stud conversion, then got some aftermarket forged aluminum B Blox extended lug nuts. I was driving down the road and felt a very slight vibration and thought it was probably the road. When I got off on my exit my tire started rubbing pretty badly. At first I thought that my shaved fenders had seperated so I pulled over. When I checked, three of my lugs were gone and the three studs they'd been on had snapped in half. I only had two still holding the rim on. I'm pretty sure that the three lugs came off and the weight of the rim and the wobble from having no lugs, snapped the studs.

    Here's what I think happened:

    I had no idea that these were aluminum (got them from a a good buddy for free) and had taken them off and on repeatedly (5-6x, maybe more - wheels were tightened and torqued to 90lbs, which may have been high for aluminum) since I've been painting calipers, doing suspension work, shaving fenders, etc. I've been told that when you have aluminum lugs on steel studs the aluminum gets messed up causing actual damage to the steel studs making them possibly come lose.
    Any opions or has anyone else dealt with a similiar situation? This could have been really bad had the wheel come completely off with my kids in the car, not to mention I'd been running some logs the night before on a private road - topping out around 140mph.

    Suggestions:

    What are the best steel lugs I can buy - money isn't an issue:
    Or would titanium be better? If so, any brands suggested?

    Pics:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

  2. #2
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by robc1976 Click here to enlarge
    What are the best steel lugs I can buy - money isn't an issue:
    Or would titanium be better? If so, any brands suggested?
    Obviously it's understandable you want to ditch these lugs. Why not go titanium? Seems you are already looking that way.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Obviously it's understandable you want to ditch these lugs. Why not go titanium? Seems you are already looking that way.
    I want sure, some say titanium just crack.....I just don't want this to every happen again lol!
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by robc1976 Click here to enlarge
    I want sure, some say titanium just crack.....I just don't want this to every happen again lol!
    If titanium cracks I guess OEM might be your best bet.
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    @Mike@VAC could prob recommend a quality set of lugs
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    I don't think aluminum has the fatigue resistance that steels has. So when it flexes over time, it cracks more easily. Think about bending a paper clip back and forth.

    The lugs are constantly loaded an unloaded as the wheel spins and the car steers left and the right. I would say steel is the only material to use for lugs.
    Eppur si muove.

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    I didn't know they even made aluminum studs. I would think that the alumin would heat faster and stretch much easier than steel would. That could be what caused the break on these. I also believe PCA Racing rules mandate that steel studs must be used due to aluminum ones breaking.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by gareth.foley Click here to enlarge
    I didn't know they even made aluminum studs. I would think that the alumin would heat faster and stretch much easier than steel would. That could be what caused the break on these. I also believe PCA Racing rules mandate that steel studs must be used due to aluminum ones breaking.
    studs are steel...lugs where aluminium.
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I don't think aluminum has the fatigue resistance that steels has. So when it flexes over time, it cracks more easily. Think about bending a paper clip back and forth.

    The lugs are constantly loaded an unloaded as the wheel spins and the car steers left and the right. I would say steel is the only material to use for lugs.
    think this way too.
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

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    Are you running spacers?

    We don't really push the fancy looking ones as they are not 'track proven' like our nuts below:
    http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ize-p1671.aspx
    http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ize-p1693.aspx

    As an FYI, we have VAC studs, lug nuts and lug bolts. Stock size and extended lengths. We sold 10s of thousands with no real issues and our typical client is a track/race enthusiast.

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Mike@VAC Click here to enlarge
    Are you running spacers?

    We don't really push the fancy looking ones as they are not 'track proven' like our nuts below:
    http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ize-p1671.aspx
    http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ize-p1693.aspx

    As an FYI, we have VAC studs, lug nuts and lug bolts. Stock size and extended lengths. We sold 10s of thousands with no real issues and our typical client is a track/race enthusiast.
    I am running 10MM spacers (hubcentric) in rear and 5MM spacers up front with your hub extenders (love the hub extenders). I just want a very high quality stud conversion with lugs. If I want them fancy I will paint them lol!
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

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    Cool, thanks :-)

    Not all hubcentric spacers are created equally...esp the 10mm units. It also depends on how the spacers mate with the wheel....not all wheels are equal.

    We recently had a race client who kept breaking studs. He tried 2 'big name' spacers and stud kits and the studs kept breaking. He switched to our spacers/studs and they are holding up so far. Side note: we are the only BMW specific company who makes spacers in house.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by robc1976 Click here to enlarge
    I am running 10MM spacers (hubcentric) in rear and 5MM spacers up front with your hub extenders (love the hub extenders). I just want a very high quality stud conversion with lugs. If I want them fancy I will paint them lol!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Mike@VAC Click here to enlarge
    Cool, thanks :-)

    Not all hubcentric spacers are created equally...esp the 10mm units. It also depends on how the spacers mate with the wheel....not all wheels are equal.

    We recently had a race client who kept breaking studs. He tried 2 'big name' spacers and stud kits and the studs kept breaking. He switched to our spacers/studs and they are holding up so far. Side note: we are the only BMW specific company who makes spacers in house.
    never had a issue with regular bolts. I am using BMS spacers and have concept one CS-5.0 rims.
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

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    I just had Rogue Engineering spacers installed, they seem to be good so far. I haven't installed my stud kit yet; does anyone know of good locking nuts? Only choice seems to be Kics

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Karura Click here to enlarge
    I just had Rogue Engineering spacers installed, they seem to be good so far. I haven't installed my stud kit yet; does anyone know of good locking nuts? Only choice seems to be Kics
    seriously thinking go with vac bolts/studs and powder coating/painting the nuts for a bit of fancy. There products are always top notch.
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by robc1976 Click here to enlarge
    seriously thinking go with vac bolts/studs and powder coating/painting the nuts for a bit of fancy. There products are always top notch.
    That seems like a good idea; I'm just worried about stolen wheels, so I'm still on the lookout for locking lugs, good ones

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