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  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-08-2017, 11:31 PM
    There are upgrades coming for the ZF 6HP21 gearbox (such as the Nizpro option) but is it too little, too late? BimmerBoost knows of a member who recently completed a DCT swap with upgraded clutches as well as a few other members doing the same thing. Details on the successfully completed swap along with install pictures, pricing details, and the performance increase will come in a later article but perhaps the best option for automatic N54's running too much torque has been around this whole time and provided by BMW themselves. The Getrag DCT unit that BMW sources is used in a variety of models. If you are wondering about the torque handling capability, just look at what kind of torque F10 M5's running upgraded turbos are putting out and how the DCT transmission with upgraded clutches is holding it. Not only is the DCT capable of higher torque capability than the ZF 6HP21 it does not have the same software issues holding it back or internal hardware capability issues. Some upgrades for the AT box only aim at making it not slip at fairly low power levels in this day and age of N54 tuning. In other words, a complete waste of time for people running big boost (or who intend to add power) and concerned with maximum performance. You know, the kind of people who read BimmerBoost. The truth is, the DCT is the best option for high powered N54's. Not only will it hold as much torque as you can throw at it you also get a shift speed benefit. It's quite simply the best performance option and the swap alone will improve performance without you even having to add any power. The E82 1M should have come from the factory with it. If you are looking into something like the Nizpro upgrade by the time you factor in shipping from Australia, part cost, software, install, and shipping you might as well have just swapped in the DCT and had the best of all worlds. Look forward to a detailed article on this swap coming up soon.
    66 replies | 2323 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-06-2017, 05:02 PM
    BoostAddict has covered a lot of Fabspeed products over the years. What is marketed is billed as top quality. The product presentation is done well and they provide good videos along with dyno data to support their claims. We like that. What we do not like is what you are going to see below. Why is nobody talking about it? Why is a lawsuit due to poor product quality and poor customer service not being discussed on any of the major forums? Probably because Fabspeed is a vendor on those forums and you will see those who raised questions were banned. Here is an example: Banned for raising questions about cheap Chinese Fabspeed sources. So what is going on? Well, take a look at some of this: Quite a bit to chew on there, isn't there? It certainly doesn't look good. It also doesn't look good that the source ( says a class action lawsuit is taking place. BoostAddict reached out for comment to see how far along this lawsuit is. What is the truth here? Well, we are going to try to find out.
    25 replies | 4017 view(s)
  • Chris@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    03-06-2017, 04:28 PM
    Many people on BimmerBoost chase dyno numbers. Bragging about 800+ rwhp is fun. That is, until things start to break and repair bills start to add up. The N54 motor can make big power but the reality is for most people 600 rwhp is plenty and we forget just how much power that is. Chris@VTT put together a good article on getting your N54 to the ~600 rwhp level. Check it out below. Hey guys, While I think most of the users here on BB are a little past this, but I wrote an article about how to get 600 whp out of your N54 powered BMW. It's not a DIY but goes over the basics of what it takes to get there from our perspective -I hope some of you find it useful. Screenshots and .pdf attached. I do want to reiterate, there are MANY ways to do this, and plenty of good quality parts out there, not everything that's good got mentioned. If you have questions, just ask, we're always glad to help. Chris PDF:
    23 replies | 3569 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-07-2017, 07:21 PM
    Fabspeed was not too pleased about the BoostAddict article yesterday which details claims about an upcoming class-action lawsuit. The job of this network is to report automotive performance news and sometimes that news is not positive. The job will be done to the writer's best ability even if that means some people might get upset. To do the job properly both sides should get their say and you, the reader, are left to make up your own mind. Now, that is quite a story and this Sal Pane fellow sounds like he is making life terrible for Fabspeed. BoostAddict did google Sal Pane and, yes, many links about him being a con man come up: There's more: What is the truth here? Well, Sal Pane's name is attached to some very shady and very dirty things. Additionally, if the threats against Fabspeed and the extortion claims are true one would think Sal Pane would face jail time. It also seems that he is a convicted felon. Fabspeed is gearing up their own legal defense. All we know is Fabspeed sells exhausts and has always been easy to work with from this end and provided this network with whatever requests for product information were made. Let's hope this matter is quickly resolved.
    30 replies | 2455 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-07-2017, 06:47 PM
    Sleeving the S65 V8 block for greater strength is the approach everyone took early on. An article from VAC asked if sleeves are bad for your S65 V8 engine and if there are any drawbacks. Their conclusion was that there are no drawbacks. BimmerBoost would beg to differ. There are drawbacks especially with flanged sleeves as when material is removed from the block to install the sleeves the rigidity is compromised. That is simply the experience with my own sleeved S65 V8 running high boost and Gintani's experience with various sleeved blocks. The approach taken for the E92 M3 now is going with a high strength chromoly bed plate to brace and reinforce the block while leaving the bore alone. BimmerBoost previewed this bedplate in an article last year and now you can see the finished design and how it compares to the factory. There will no doubt be people saying sleeves are the way to go. They are welcome to try. The factory block without sleeves is currently supporting over 700 horsepower to the wheels. There are obviously going to be upgrades other than just this brace but take into account what AMS says here: What will an S65 V8 do with a reinforced block, forged crank, forged internals, and turbos? Well, we are going to find out.
    41 replies | 807 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-22-2017, 04:11 AM
    BimmerBoost and the BoostAddict Automotive Performance Network as a whole takes pride in having great vendors who are enthusiasts at their core. The automotive world is riddled with scammers and this website has turned away and reported on a fair share. Unfortunately, JPWorkz is one that got on this board and never should have been allowed here in the first place. Call me naive but I believe people are ultimately good natured and in this because they love cars. I can not imagine taking in orders and then just blatantly ripping people off for thousands of dollars. How do you live with yourself? Well, perhaps if you have been doing it for over a decade you become numb to it. JPWorks or @JerryT introduced himself to me and pretended to offer a complete N54 turbo upgrade kit for a very low price. If something is priced too good to be true, it usually is. I would periodically receive messages telling me this Jerry fellow was a scammer known as Shaudfab. My initial thought was that maybe other vendors did not like someone coming in and pricing a turbo upgrade so low that it undercut them. I gave the guy a chance to prove himself but it soon became apparent a person named Jerry Trance was not reputable and likely did not even exist. The red flags were there after a few months. There is a 48 page thread you can go over and read for yourself but let's summarize things for those of you who don't have buckets of popcorn and hours to spare. I'll start with my personal experience that this guy always had an excuse. He never was able to pay his vendor tab on time. Literally, he never did. When he finally did the payments would come from someone named Anika Briton as he said he had no Paypal account. Huh, what? No Paypal account? Oh, I get it now, he didn't want a payment trail tied to him: Notice the payments cancel frequently as the account never was able to maintain payments. Also notice the dates constantly vary as it was like pulling teeth to get this person to maintain their account. Basically, all he wanted was to pay some money, put up a thread, collect orders, and run away with as much money as possible. Eventually JerryT told me he would pay for a block of time in advance. I took him at his word. Guess what happened? He did not honor his word. Suddenly things got very weird with this Shaudfab involvement: His 'girl' is somehow involved with Shaudfab who is well known as a scammer: Things get very dirty the deeper you look: He doesn't just scam auto parts but everything: Those posts are dated as far back as 2005 meaning this person has been scamming on forums for well over a decade. Not to mention, getting away with it. He has it down to a science it seems. This information is actually common knowledge. People have messaged me confirming all of it but are afraid to take it to the police or have their name attached to it. Just look at this guy: Tracking down information on this guy is actually quite difficult as he has perfected his scamming technique to make sure he can't be found. Well, maybe perfected gives him too much credit: Now we're starting to get somewhere. These fake names keep popping up but they are tied to Bakersfield and a certain address. At the very least there is an address tied to the names. Two fakes names for shipping, but the same address. A place for the FBI to start, right? There are those who defend him saying this is all hate because his 'kit' is priced so cheaply but there sure is a long trail of people saying they got scammed: We could go on, and on, and on, and on... but it's time for this to come to an end. There is simply a constant pattern of missing parts, kits not being shipped, missed dates, broken promises, stolen money, etc. I am not a detective and neither are car enthusiasts on this forum. There is more than enough here for the FBI to do a proper investigation. This forum will gladly provide all the PM's, IP addresses, and e-mails from the JerryT account if asked. What I can say is that no vendor providing so little information about who they are will ever be allowed here again. Those who were scammed, provide the FBI with the information at the following link: Let's finally make sure justice is served and that law enforcement properly investigates. It's the least we can do.
    23 replies | 1994 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-28-2017, 04:22 AM
    CARB (California Air Resources Board) is doing its darndest to ruin performance cars for everyone. What is the problem? CARB is adopting standards for 2025 that automakers believe are far too strict. Why is this a problem? First of all, automakers already stated they simply can not meet the previously proposed standards. Secondly, the rest of the states in the union would be forced to acknowledge CARB's decision. That means even if you do not live in California CARB would still be able to push your state around. Imagine for a moment a new car coming out with a lot of horsepower that is very efficient and meets EPA standards but does not meet CARB standards. Effectively, there would be two sets of emission standards in the USA but the CARB standards could force that automaker to abandon selling the car in the United States or even worse not bother producing it. Want to know what is truly troubling? Arizona, Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, Washington, and the District of Columbia all decided to agree to CARB's standards. That means many of you are not exempt from California's eco-nazis even if you do not live in California. CARB gets away with setting federal standards as it pre-dates the EPA and a waiver under the Federal Clean Air Act means their emission standards must be recognized by other states. What will happen? Who knows. The Trump administration froze EPA grants to CARB hitting them where it hurts. The Trump administration also cut funding to the EPA. The Obama administration on their way out rushed approval of new EPA standards that align with CARB prior to Trump taking office. CARB blames the automakers: The White House believes California is going too far: As you can see, this is all pretty messy and will involve a lot of lawyers on taxpayer dime to sort out. The best case scenario is that CARB's waiver is revoked effectively neutralizing their power. The worst case scenario is two standards floating around which carmakers simply decide not to even bother with and stop producing performance cars altogether for the US market. Thanks a lot California.
    36 replies | 541 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-11-2017, 07:54 PM
    This is a real shame although not really all that surprising. The Audi RS7 utilizes an all wheel drive ZF gearbox and the new W213 E63 AMG follows suit. What do they both have in common? Twin turbo top mount V8's and all wheel drive. Developing a DCT gearbox to support the torque of these twin turbo V8's moving 4500+ pound cars is difficult. Not to mention there needs to be some headroom as the companies know people will tune and launch them. Audi did the same thing with the new S5 model and its turbo powerplant. They ditched the dual clutch transmission for a ZF automatic. Who is the winner in this? ZF. They get to sell more transmissions and no doubt the cost factored into BMW's decision. The next generation mid-size battle is shaping up as the most boring of all time. Audi, Mercedes, and BMW all have the same exact thing. Porsche has a similar 4.0 liter V8 motor as the other three but at least gives you a dual clutch transmission with all wheel drive which stands out in the segment. Cadillac, please do something exciting with your next car that doesn't copy the already boring German recipe. Source
    27 replies | 1226 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-04-2017, 07:21 PM
    The year of the N55? Maybe, as the turbo upgrade options are getting very interesting especially with several capable of over 600 horsepower at the wheels. Speedtech's Stage 3 N55 entry promises 600+ rwhp, full boost by 3000 rpm, and a total cost less than $5000. Bold claims but they appear to be backing them up. Let's look at the specs. They use a cast manifold and Borgwarner EFR 7670 turbocharger: Here is what is included: BorgWarner EFR 7670 Turbo Cast Exhaust Manifold (divided for twin scroll) Stainless Steel Downpipe RH Engine Mount Waterpump Mount Bracket Coolant Hoses and Fittings Oil Lines and Fittings Aluminum Turbo Inlet Tube Aluminum Turbo Outlet Tube Silicone Couplers EWG Bracket and Linkage Required Fasteners and Hose Clamps V-band Clamp Ok, so what abou the result? They hit 628 rwhp on a 2014 335i that also has their Port Fuel Injection kit. The intercooler, airbox, and exhaust are all stock: That is a good looking torque curve and it stays relatively flat from 3800 rpm to 6500 rpm. The kit is only available for the F30 335i at the moment and retails for $4600 going up from there with options. Is this the N55 turbo upgrade to beat?
    29 replies | 980 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-13-2017, 08:59 PM
    It seems DCT transmission swaps are all the rage right now. The E60 M5 in particular would make good use of this swap as the S85 V10 was paired to an SMG-III gearbox instead of a DCT which came later and debuted with the E92 M3. Speaking from personal experience, Gintani told me about this swap years ago. BimmerBoost just has yet to see proof of it done. There is an E60 M5 owner who inquired about this transmission swap process with Gintani: That month time frame he mentioned came and went. Speaking from experience, do not count on Gintani to make a quoted deadline. So where are we now in this process? Gintani did not pick up the phone when BimmerBoost called. We do know the car is being wrapped up according to the owner. No doubt if you want to replicate this swap Gintani will require you to bring your car to them. Hopefully videos are posted as well as acceleration results so not only can we see that the swap works but that it provides a substantial performance benefit. Oh, and for those wondering about the difficulty: This swap will likely become a popular option for S85 V10 cars as install details with the necessary software come out. Plus, don't forget BMW did this swap themselves on the E60 M5 CSL.
    26 replies | 1078 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-14-2017, 09:00 PM
    The average person does not understand dyno numbers and how they relate to horsepower. People claiming to be automotive journalists and writing for automotive websites should understand dyno numbers especially if they are going to claim a car is not delivering the claimed manufacturer output. A complete idiot on MBWorld by the name of Jerry Perez is spreading what you can only appropriately call fake news by stating the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio does not deliver on its claimed 505 horsepower output: Touted as the AMG Beater, the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio’s Advertised Horsepower Crumbles on the Dyno His reasoning? This dyno graph from an article last week: The genius writes the power crumbles on the dyno. Yes, seriously. He decides to apply a 15% correction factor which means the car should actually show 429 horsepower to the wheels and that is the basis for his claim. Well, we can't argue with that now can we? 15% of 505 horsepower is 429. He's got us there. At no point though does he consider that a Mustang dyno may read differently than other dynos. At no point does he consider that the 15% drivetrain loss 'rule' actually originated with the Dynojet and is used as a (flawed) rule of thumb for drivetrain losses on manual transmission cars. At no point does he think about maybe doing some basic research into the dyno type and looking at results from other cars. Here is an example. This is a C218 generation Mercedes-AMG CLS63 with the M157 twin turbo V8 motor. It is rated at 518 horsepower and 516 lb-ft of torque. By the reasoning of Mr. Perez it should show 440 horsepower to the wheels: OMG? What is going on here? Someone sound the alarm! Only 390 horsepower to the wheels from a 518 horsepower motor! Where is the article saying C218 CLS63 AMG horsepower crumbles on the dyno? Brace yourself. Here comes something that will blow your mind. This is a CLS63 on a different type of dyno: Yes, the blue line is the stock output and shows 483 horsepower to the wheels. Suddenly the CLS63 goes from not having 518 horsepower to having more than 518 horsepower. Is this magic? Do CLS63's vary by 93 horsepower at the wheels from the factory? No. It's simply that Jerry Perez is a hack, MBWorld is run by morons who allow fanboys to spew this garbage, and the user base is not intelligent enough to know the difference. One can simply look at the trap speed for the Giulia Quadrifoglio to see it is making its advertised output. Anyone who is going to make a claim that a car is underperforming should at least research its performance figures beforehand. Alfa Romeo should be angry this false claim is being spread but then again they have bigger fish to fry. BoostAddict will happily correct this garbage. How about option 3? You don't know what you're talking about.
    16 replies | 1859 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-18-2017, 09:40 PM
    We all knew it was just a matter of time. Being the first Nissan GTR to crack the 6's is a huge deal. Various tuners have battled for the honor over the past year but only one could claim the crown. Congratulations are in order to AMS Performance. The GTR is tuned on a Syvecs ECU but further details beyond that are hard to come by as the record pass happened not too long ago. This thread will be updated with details on the Alpha Performance Alpha G GTR by Diamonds by Wire Racing as they come out. What we do now is the car managed an insane 1.213 60 foot time and broke into the 6's at 196.27 miles per hour. Just a crazy fast achievement and it deserves all the credit in the world.
    31 replies | 338 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-24-2017, 03:33 AM
    A recent article about a Mustang dyno run for the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio exposed a large flaw in traditional dyno thinking. On this website most readers know that you can not just grab a graph from one type of dyno and compare it to another dyno and expect the numbers to be uniform. Unfortunately, the average person does not understand this which is what led to someone putting out an article stating the Giulia Quadrifoglio is not making its stated output which sets understanding of dyno runs back instead of helping educate. Let's start with the idea that cars suffer from 15% drivetrain losses. Where did this idea start? Why is it 15%? It originated with the Dynojet and became a rule of thumb on automotive forums for manual transmission cars. The percentage changes based on if the car is automatic (20%) or even all wheel drive and automatic (25%). The problem here is that while the conversion factor works well to extrapolate crank horsepower from peak Dynojet figures at the wheels that is not the way drivetrain losses work. First of all, losses are not static. There is no one set figure for losses. What does this mean? It means that your losses in 5th gear at 8000 rpm will be different from 2nd gear at 2000 rpm. The loss figure will change based on rpm, load, and even what accessories are running. Stating all manual cars suffer from a single set figure is flawed for this reason. Not to mention that figure only works on the Dynojet which is inertia based. BMW M cars used to follow the number exactly back when they were naturally aspirated: E46 M3 S54 Displacement: 3.2 liter Horsepower: 343 Torque: 269 lb-ft Wheel Horsepower: 280 Wheel Torque: 235 E92 M4 S65 Displacement: 4.0 liter Horsepower: 414 Torque: 300 lb-ft Wheel Horsepower: 350 Wheel Torque: 254 lb-ft 85% of 414 horsepower is 351.9. Notice the E92 M3 is almost exactly at 15%. DCT models would actually dyno slightly less than manual examples due to the wet clutch dual clutch having higher losses. For the E46 M3 85% of 333 horsepower is 283.05. Again, the E46 M3 is almost perfectly at 15% losses on the Dynojet. It's almost scary how consistently close BMW was to this figure. Now, in comes the turbo era. Let's see what happens when we get to the F80 M3. F80 M3 S55 Horsepower: 425 Torque: 406 lb-ft Wheel horsepower: 427 Wheel torque: 429 How is the S55 engine producing more horsepower at the wheels than it is rated at the crank by BMW? Does the F80 M3 have a magical transmission with negative losses that somehow adds power? Of course not. The DCT transmission in the F80 M3 works the same way as the DCT transmission in the E92 M3. What happened was the 15% Dynojet loss rule went out the window when the turbo power war started. BMW is able to claim a lower number to not push an output war on paper yet delivers far more where it matters, to the tires. The drivetrain losses are still about the same for the transmission and rear wheel drive layout as the previous generation despite it no longer lining up with the crank horsepower figure which is practically meaningless. How does this all look on a Mustang load bearing or eddy current variant? Well, very different. While the Dynojet is spinning a drum of a set weight and calculating the result based on how quickly that weight is spun the Mustang dyno creates load. Why is this important? Because it simulates real world conditions which is great for tuning. A tuner can provide all kinds of different scenarios. The spool on the Mustang for a turbo motor will look different than on a Dynojet. Often time real world spool is much quicker than what is shown on a Dynojet graph due to load which generates exhaust gases more quickly for the turbochargers. Note: Dynojet operators can optionally eddy current load control as well which muddies comparisons further. The other day BimmerBoost posted an article on VF-Engineering's F87 M2 ECU flash software and provided Dynojet runs. Let's take a look at the same M2 running the same Stage I software on a Mustang: Now the Dynojet: 269 rear wheel horsepower for the Mustang and 331 rear wheel horsepower for the Dynojet on the baseline figure. That is a difference of 62 horsepower at the wheels or 18.7 %. If you take that 18.7% difference and apply it to the tuned run on the Mustang which shows 287 to the wheels you get 354 horsepower. Almost exactly what the Dynojet tuned run shows. This is not an exact science as you can see. However, if you were to dyno cars all day on the Dynojet and on this Mustang you would see the runs follow very closely to the ~18% difference between the two. So is that it? Just convert Mustang runs by 18.7% to get a Dynojet number? No. Things actually get very muddied due to the games tuners play. Here is an example. The new Porsche 991.2 Carrera S on a Dynojet: 380 horsepower to the wheels. Now here is a 991.2 Carrera S on a Mustang from AWE-Tuning: Why does the Mustang dyno show more power now? Because it is being corrected to read higher. People do not like low numbers and high numbers are better for marketing. BoostAddict asked AWE-Tuning what their correction factor is but they would not share it with us. You can see it is reading VERY high and higher than a Dynojet though. In this instance it is better to focus on the delta which you will often hear tuners say. That means the difference between the two runs as comparing the peak figures to other runs on other dynos is pointless due to the unknown correction factor. Good for marketing, bad for those who want relevant figures to compare with. It can also be very bad for consumers. Why is that you ask? Because some people will dyno without a correction factor and then change the correction factor to show larger gains. A good example of someone who plays with the numbers is Vivid Racing: They claim 407 wheel horsepower for an exhaust and canned tune on a Mustang dyno for the E92 M3. Anyone who has an E92 M3 (like me) and has had these modifications and dyno'd the car knows this is impossible. It looks good for someone who doesn't know that though and wants to buy parts thinking they make a ton of power, right? Always keep in mind when you see figures from a company or tuner you should question them. Independent runs are the best to go by as the person usually isn't trying to sell you anything but just share their results. Also remember the Mustang can be configured like most dynamometers to read whatever the operator wants it to read. If vendors and tuners did not play with dyno runs for sales we would have a great resource to work with for comparisons and so forth. You can not trust all tuners to do so. Fortunately, VF-Engineering has no dog in the fight and provided us with a variety of runs showing the difference between their Mustang and their Dynojet. Yes, they have both. That is the proper way to do it. One dyno for tuning and one for marketing. Rather than correcting figures with whatever percentage generates the most sales they show the uncorrected runs on both machines so people can learn from and reference the pulls. BMW 335i (N55) Stage TWO Dynojet: Mustang: An 18.2% difference between the peak horsepower on the tuned figures. There will be variance from run to run, day to day, fuel to fuel, gear to gear, etc. Ultimately, remember, while dyno runs can tell you a lot about a motor or modifications they can also mislead people. Even worse, people can read them incorrectly and spread misinformation or manipulate them to sell parts. A dyno is just one, albeit important, piece of the performance puzzle.
    20 replies | 1153 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-07-2017, 10:42 PM
    Here is the updated 991.2 generation Porsche 911 GT3 and it is amazing. Yes, they squeezed more power out of it by going to 4.0 liters from 3.8. Basically, the same recipe the 991.1 GT3 RS 4.0 uses to get more power over the 991.1 GT3 3.8 except they are revving it to 9000 rpm at 4.0 liters now rather than the 8800 rpm of the 991.1 GT3 RS 4.0. This also likely means the 991.2 GT3 RS will go to 4.2 liters of displacement. Not to mention it likely means the end of the line as what else are they going to do? Try to eek out a little bit more displacement? Going hybrid is likely the next step. The big news other than the 9k rpm 4.0 liter flat-6 with 500 horses and 336 lb-ft of torque is the return of the manual transmission. All those people who paid way over sticker for the 911R may be kicking themselves now. Do not fret if you are a PDK person (like this writer) as you have the choice of a manual or a dual clutch. Porsche finally listened. What about the weight? 3116 pounds with the manual. The PDK dual clutch adds 37 pounds. What else is there to say? The new 991.2 GT3 is worth every penny of its $143,600 asking price. Now what in the world do they have in store for the 991.2 GT3 RS to top this?
    25 replies | 551 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-10-2017, 09:37 PM
    BMW does not exactly have a great track record delivering M3 engines without issues. The E46, E9X, and F80 generation M3's all have engine problems from the factory. We are going to discuss the S65 V8 from the E90, E92, and E93 specifically in this article. What is the problem? This: BMW M5 (2005-2010), BMW M3 (2008-2013) can suffer early bearing failure due to inadequate rod bearing clearance. Insufficient clearance means insufficient oil flow, excessive bearing surface heat, and premature wear. These symptoms can lead to early bearing failure and a very expensive engine rebuild. Problem can be addressed during engine rebuild, but it's expensive. Some people switched to thinner oils -- as a stopgap measure. Other stopgap measures include anti-friction teflon coated factory bearings, WPC anti-friction treated factory bearings, and custom bearings with same clearance as stock. "Coated" factory bearings decreased clearance. This is not a good idea. WPC treated bearings slightly increase clearance, but are a stopgap. Custom bearings keeping factory clearance doesn't fix the problem, but allows you to track lead and copper in Blackstone oil analysis. Newer factory bearings (2010.5 and later) are made from tin-aluminum, not lead-copper. Tin-aluminum bearings are 4-times harder on the surface than lead-copper bearings. This extra hardness shows signs of doing more damage to motors as there seems to be more bearing failures with 2010.5 and later vehicles. Tin-aluminum bearings also don't show the same signs of premature wear in Blackstone oil analysis due to lack of lead and copper. A better solution was needed. If you have insufficient oil flow and premature wear you will eventually lose the motor. When it will happen depends on use but it will happen. So what is the solution? New bearings that are made to the proper clearance of course and for those who truly want peace of mind when tracking a dry sump oil system is recommended. BMW skimped in this area which is no surprise. If you replace the bearings with properly sized units and run the proper oil, you will not have problems. So how do you replace the bearings? Well, this DIY from SYT_Shadow covers it. For those not comfortable doing this yourselves, shops such as GermanAutoWerks or @alex@ABRhouston can do it for you. DIY: Special tools used 3/8” 12 point socket to install the BE-ARP bolts 6 inch T30. I had a 4 inch one and it doesn’t work, so I lost an hour driving around looking for one. Do not start the work without one! Special hardware used BW street/track (Group N) engine mounts. If yours is a street car, I suggest replacing them with OEM items BE Bearings. I don’t understand why anyone would use something else BE-ARP bolts. Again, these should be the default choice for everyone. Besides being the best bolts for these engines, you do not want to be angle torqueing stuff in this tight a space. Somewhere, someone is thinking ‘$500 is a lot for bolts’. Well good luck with that... Plastigauge. You need the green one. You can buy some at Two different Computorq3 electronic torque wrenches. I have the ½” one as well as the ¼”, which covers the range of required torque. To do this with a crappy/inaccurate torque wrench is a waste of time. Harbor Freight Engine hoist. I used this on my E46M3 rod bearing DIY. It’s a cheap piece of hardware that works exactly as designed! Snap-on 3/8 electric ratchet. This makes everything a lot easier. There are a TON of bolts you have to remove to do this job, I highly suggest either this or the Milwaukee one Time taken This took 12h, first time doing it. We usually are slow workers. It was 10h one day and 2h the next. There is no doubt that if we were not doing a DIY - which requires you to spend lots of time pausing to take pictures, etc and renders one of the two people working useless - it would have taken significantly less. There was also one snag with the 4” T30 and subsequent easter egg hunt which took time, but you get the idea. Torque specs (courtesy of E92love) oil pan bolts (30 qt) and all other M6 bolts inside/outside engine: 10 Nm steering rack bolt on step 6 (1 qt) (M8): 21 Nm E12 transmission to oil pan bolts (4 qt) (M10): 38 Nm engine mount nuts. 1 top, 1 bottom on each side: 56 Nm the 6 front subframe bolts (M12): 108 Nm rear 2 most subframe bolts (M10): 56 Nm + 90 degree re-enforcement plate bolts (7 qt) (M10): 56 Nm + 90 degree 4 water pump pulley bolts (M6): 10 Nm pulley tensioning system on both sides. 2 for each side (M8): 19 Nm Part numbers (courtesy of ///Mobbin) 11137841085 - e92 m3 oil pan gasket Oil pickup tube/system parts that I also ordered (just in case): 11417839832 - pickup tube o-ring 11417839833 - pickup tube o-ring 11417838534 - suction pipe gasket 11427837997 - oil filter kit (oil filter, o-rings, crush washers) 07119904550 x 2 - oil pan drain plug (includes crush washer also) 07-12-9-905-537 - 16 x oil pan screws 07-12-9-905-599 - 12 x oil pan screws 07-12-9-905-600 - 2 x oil pan screws 12611744292 - oil level sensor o-ring 11812283798 - engine mounts (might include nuts, not sure) 07119904025 x 4 - engine mount nuts Note 1 As you will drain the oil you will need to refill it. A typical oil change in this car is 8 quarts/liters and a little more. While changing rod bearings you remove a massive amount of oil which would typically never leave the engine, which means you will need 9.5 bottles to fill it back up so the car is happy. Protip: have more than that just in case! Note 2 At times the DIY pics will show something I haven’t explained yet, so it may seem out of order. That is because at times you try different things. You should follow the order of instructions explained here Note 3 Rod bearings do not require break in. If you used assembly lube, you should change the oil after a few thousand miles. Both BE Bearings and Bimmerworld were contacted to weigh in on this. When you think of it, a rod bearing should never have contact with the crank. Regular break in is more about seating the rings and walls than anything else Note 4 I am told this can be done without removing the fan. Next time I do the job I'll take pics and update the thread accordingly. Doing this without removing the fan will cut out several step and save quite a bit of time, I definitely suggest you try that first The patient Putting the DCT into neutral. The 6MT guys can skip this part Lift the shift boot from the front by pressing rearwards and unclipping it There is a black guard which you can see in this pic. With a screwdriver, move to forward and it will slide out of the way Here you can see the white lever that hides behind the black guard. You put a screwdriver in there and move it. The car will go into neutral and complain about it Starting from the top, we remove part of the air intake ducting. There are two push pins that go down into the black brace-like bar and two screws which go into the car When all four are removed you can pull the front part of the duct towards you This releases the rear part of the duct Install your engine support brace. Here are some pics of mine. You need to slightly tension it ‘upwards’ so that it is trying to pull the engine up, just a little bit. Remember the engine mounts are still installed so the engine cannot move much I try to minimize potential energy, so I put a cushioned mat on top of the sharp parts of the engine support bar and then rest the hood on it Remove the front wheels We remove all the black felt underbody panels. There are many, many little screws Note the three rear ones of the front felt part are different than the rest When you remove the side front ‘wings’ you can see the cable structure that supports the front felt part. You slide the top sideways and then out so it falls freely. Note you don't need to remove the two screws that hold the bottom of those cables. Continue removing the bottom felt pieces More felt pieces This is what you’re left with. Note the clips on the bottom of the fan which hold piping. Remove all the pipes from the clips 2 Remove the aluminum chassis brace. There are 7 bolts, one of them is conveniently hidden inside the front center jack support Remove the tranny felt underbody A leaky DCT pan… wonderful… I’ll get to that sucker later Go back to the top of the car We now move onto the fan. I did the removal and reinstallation without removing any more of the air intake. It’s easier if you remove the air box, but it can be done like this The radiator is held on by a single torx bolt on the passenger side. You can see it here. Remove it Unclip the large connector right by the torx bolt You can try sliding the fan upwards but it faces resistance. This is because there’s a clip that has to be undone on the driver side and the bottom of the fan has pipes clipped onto it Lets go for the clip on the driver side, on the edge of the fan. You can just about put your arm in there and unclip it while you move the fan up. It’s a really tight, PITA fit but eventually you will release the whole fan after a lot of wiggling. Peekaboo Finally Go back to the bottom of the car Right by all the pipes you disconnected from the fan you have another ‘U’ pipe which is bolted onto the subframe. It has 3 bolts and one nut. One of the 3 bolts is shorter, that one goes on the passenger side of the rack In the wheel well, remove the ABS/Brake lines from where they’re connected to the strut Drain the oil. Remember there are two drain holes in the S65 Remove the front sway bar links. I see BMW learned from the bad design of the E46M and now you can use two regular open ended wrenches The next thing in the way of lowering the subframe is the belt tensioner. It is half attached to the engine and the oil pan, so we need to loosen it. As it’s the tensioner it’s very hard to move and we must remove the belt first Start by taking off the cap to access the bolt underneath. This is what we’ll use to release tension and remove the belt You then use a wrench to release the tension on the belt and slide the belt off. Once the belt is off, release the tension slowly until the tensioner reaches the end of its travel Here you see the base of the tensioner which is still out of our reach because the subframe prevents us from reaching the bolts. Once we lower the subframe a bit we’ll return Prepare to start undoing lowering the subframe. First we unclip different wires. Here you can see two different cables that must be disconnected. One is to the lower left and goes to the arm which controls the xenon position, the other is a white connector Remove the ground from the engine block There is a bracket on the front driver’s side of the car. It’s held on with two bolts. Remove them Notice the wrench I’m holding Rotate the steering rack towards the passenger. Do it slowly and you’ll be able to peek at the steering rack bolt that has to be removed. You see this looking from the driver’s side of the wheel well You need a E10 for the steering rack. Before touching this, draw a couple of lines between both parts you will uncouple. This allows you to mate it up exactly as it was. This is not poke-yoke, so it’s possible to set it back up with a crooked steering wheel. If that were to happen to me, I’d just get the car aligned, it is not the end of the world. I drew two lines and was able to reattach it perfectly Here you can see the two lines You need an extension to get there It’s out! Now we are ready to loosen then lower the subframe. Lets get the 6 bolts first. Note at this point I unscrew the 6 bolts but without removing them. You could also just remove them, the subframe weighs nothing and will happily hang from the suspension After making sure no cable is about to snap, I release the bolts completely We can revisit the tensioner now that the subframe is a bit lower. Remove the three bolts Go to the back of the oil pan where there’s a surprising amount of cables. Unclip them and release the harnesses It’s time for the oil pan bolts! Please take note of how long the T30 needed is. I used a 6 inch one because the 4 inch 'extra long' one I had bought for this job was insufficient Remove all the oil pan bolts. There are many of them. The ones you need the extra long T30 are in the back of the oil pan I followed smart people’s advice and inserted the oil pan bolts into the cardboard part that comes with the new oil pan gasket. There are a few diagrams I made. Left is the front of the engine, right is the rear. I put the car behind some pictures to make it extra clear. Note the two different lengths of bolts that are used, so take note! Just like in the E46M, the back of the oil pan/tranny interface has 4 long bolts that go into the oil pan. I used an open ended wrench on 3 of them as a regular socket doesn’t fit After that, the oil pan just falls down a bit. An oil pipe and the subframe avoids it from going far Here you can see the fat pipe in the front which is avoiding our progress Time to remove that pipe. It’s held on with two screws and has a mini gasket. Remove the short fat pipe. Note that this pipe has threadlocker on it, so be sure to reapply blue threadlocker when reassembling Now you can drop the oil pan further Next up are the two remaining oil pipes plus the supports. Remove them all. Note that all this hardware has threadlocker on it, so be sure to reapply blue threadlocker when reassembling Finally, we can start accessing the rod bearings! Cylinder 1 (most to the front of the car) is in the perfect position. You can do rods 1 and 2 without rotating the engine. I went cylinder by cylinder completing the work After loosening the two bolts that hold a cap, sometimes you need to give it a little nudge with a rubber mallet Note these are cracked forged rods which, besides being awesome, are cylinder and side specific. That means cylinder one’s cap only mates to cylinder one and the left side must go with the left side. I guess enough people screwed this up with the E46M3 that they started numbering the sides, so now one side of each rod and cap has numbers are the other doesn’t. Once you have a cap in your hand, you remove the old bearing. Easiest way I've found to do that is rotating it from the belly sideways, if need be one way and the other, and it'll slide right out. Next get a new bearing, insert it into the cap (it is a bit springy, but it does fit), note that top and bottom bearings are identical in my case. Some BE Bearing sets will be marked 'top' and 'bottom' shells, so if that is the case be sure to put the 'top' shell into the rod, the bottom into the cap. The ones I received were undesignated tops and bottoms and could be installed interchangeably Then, get some clean oil or assembly lube and cover the surface of the bearing. I misplaced my assembly lube but apparently oil works just fine according to technical folks, so I used that. I used a clean glove to spread the oil on, replacing it every time it got dirty because I touched another surface First insert the bearing on the cap (where you can see what you're doing, and practice doing it by feel only), then the rod. To access the upper bearing just push the piston up by the rod and then nudge the old bearing sideways to get it out, just like you did on the cap. Cap 1 removed! Journal looks happy Here are my new goodies This is a pic of the socket you need for the ARP bolts These are torqued to 50ft-lb. Note this entire DIY is in Nm except the rod bolts, which are made by ARP so they use an imperial fastener and imperial torque specs. First I torqued both sides to 30ft-lb, then to 50. I wanted to ensure they were well settled BE-ARP bolts come with lube. There’s like 20x the amount needed even though at the beginning I thought there was too little. You are supposed to cover the threads and head with lube as seen below Plastigauge/Plastigage I wanted to write this up because I’ve always been curious. As luck would have it, the massive box of plastigauge I had bought sometime in the past had every size known to man except the one I wanted. Nonetheless, I went through the procedure even though the numbers here don’t mean anything You are supposed to use the new bearings here, but I used the old ones as the measurements in my case are worthless as I don’t have the right material Note that the desired range when using green plastigage I linked above which is in inches is: You should see anything from 0.0022 - 0.0028. Even the upper end of 0.0030 isn't the end of the world. The connecting rod bores seem to wear bigger over time. For those that are on the upper end of the clearance spectrum that you'd like to bring down, get some 600-grit wet sandpaper, and sand the parting lines (with the paper wet). Go 6-8 swipes in each direction with light-to-medium pressure (5lbs - 10lbs pressure). Clean the dust thorougly, re-install, and re-measure. If it's still not where you want it, do it one more time. I don't think I'd do it more than twice though. First you lay a little piece of plastigauge across the belly of the rod bearing Then, you torque it down to whatever the fastener you use takes. Again, I used the old fasteners and tightened to 30ft-lb because my sizes were wrong Finally, you remove the cap again and then compare against the piece of paper that comes with the plastigauge According to this, I have 0.0076mm of clearance After the first two rods you’ll have to move to the third and fourth. You need to rotate the engine. You do this with a 32mm socket at the front of the engine and turn clockwise Eventually the third and fourth rods with be right in the middle and you can work on those. Repeat the process until you’re done Lets see what the bearings look like! I also removed the engine mounts and swapped them for BW units. Note that after only 36k miles mine were not looking too hot When reinstalling, you bolt the engine mount to the subframe instead of to the engine cradle where it just was Installation is the reverse of disassembly, but just in case I show the steering rack which is the hardest part. Start raising the subframe slowly and the parts will more or less mate up Note you should reapply green loctite to the steering rack bolt before reassembling Don’t forget to fill up with oil and change the oil filter before turning the engine on! As the engine is completely emptied of oil, someone suggested to pull fuse 39 so the engine doesn’t start. You can see that below. I did this, but the engine still fires and then won’t start, which I don’t think is an advantage. If it just cranked then yes, but by pulling this fuse it cranks, then fires, then dies. After a few tries I reinstalled the fuse and turned the engine on, leaving it alone for a while so it heated up. I recommend you do that from the beginning
    15 replies | 1373 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-13-2017, 07:00 PM
    An SUV with over 700 to the tires? Oh baby! That is exactly what you have here with this F85 X5M that had its S63TU V8 turbochargers upgraded to Pure Turbos Stage 2 units. The resulting power and torque is absolutely incredible. 713 horsepower and 690 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. This kind of output raises a lot of questions though. Is the transmission upgraded and how is it holding the torque? Who did the tuning? Is this on methanol? Hopefully @Pure Turbos can shed some light but there is no denying this is incredible output from an SUV.
    21 replies | 891 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-22-2017, 09:51 PM
    Great news for BMW F87 M2 owners looking for quite a bit more power and torque out of their M2. The chassis of the car is capable of handling much more power than BMW gives it but we all know it can not be allowed to encroach on the mighty M3/M4. Well, in comes VF-Engineering to the rescue with Stage I and II Hex Tuning software. Let's start with taking a look at Stage I on a Dynojet in STD and uncorrected plots: You see a big torque gain before 3000 rpm and gains throughout the curve which level off toward redline. The N55B30T0 is not exactly a classic M top end design but it sees over 400 lb-ft of torque at the wheels with just the Stage I tune. Now let's look at Stage II: The Stage II software picks up 52 peak wheel horsepower but the torque gain is a massive 78 lb-ft at the wheels. The peak torque figure is an incredible 442 lb-ft on the Dynojet. That is something you are going to feel. I can say that with certainty as I went for a ride in VF-Engineering's Hex Tuned M2 and it is very stout down low. It pushes you into your seat right away. Does it pull like a freight train up top? No, but that is the nature of the N55B30T0 engine. The software complements the factory curve and just gives you more of everything including more power in the upper rev range where it is desperately needed. The software is not just about power and torque gains but offers additional features such as a limiter delete, throttle overrun (exhaust burble), start up roar, and an increased power level on the Sport Display. It all felt very OEM and worked perfectly. You wouldn't want a stock M2 after trying it out, let's put it that way.
    20 replies | 745 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-06-2017, 03:35 PM
    MKIV Supra vs. 335i is always fun to see and this one has a Kawasaki ZX10r bike thrown in for good measure. The 335i is the camera car and it starts off against the bike. Surprisingly, it doesn't have much trouble with it from a roll. The Supra is up next. For some reason, he hasn't mastered the art of going on three honks so the Supra jumps the first race. It takes him a couple tries to understand 1-2-3 go. They finally line up but you can not really hear the honks not that the Supra is following them anyway. They hit it and the 335 pulls rather easily. It sure seems to be running very strong for what is a Pure Turbos Stage 2 setup or maybe the Supra isn't making 700 to the wheels. An impressive 335i for sure.
    19 replies | 654 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-22-2017, 09:01 PM
    So close to the 10's you can just feel it. You can also bet this car will be in the 10's soon as these runs were made at full weight and 1275 feet of density altitude. What makes this impressive is the S4 is still using the factory 1.32 liter Eaton blower. That is where the APR dual pulley system and Ultracharger throttle body upgrade come into play in order to squeeze every ounce of performance from the SC unit. You may be asking, how did APR almost cut a half second in elapsed time from the 2014 S4 that ran 11.5 @ 121 with these upgrades? Well, this car utilized their race gas tune as well as a more aggressive pulley setup among other things: 2012 Audi S4 (B8) 3.0 TFSI S Tronic APR ECU Upgrade - Stage 2+ Ultracharger APR TCU Upgrade APR Ultracharger Throttle Body Upgrade APR Supercharger Drive Pulley APR Supercharger Crank Pulley APR Coolant Performance System APR Intake System 2.5” Exhaust System with Testpipes Street Tires Full Interior Sunoco GT260 Plus To think they are about to get 10's out of the car on the factory blower using boost only and no nitrous is incredible. APR has literally pushed it to the maximum.
    22 replies | 402 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-19-2017, 05:04 PM
    You may remember this 550i from a video earlier this month where it pulled away from a stock F10 M5. Additionally, last month on the dyno with JB4 tuning the car produced 511 rear wheel horsepower and 621 lb-ft of rear wheel torque. Well, with the addition of their BCM (Boost Control Module) BMS is able to increase horsepower to 570 at the wheels and torque to 632 lb-ft at the wheels: That is a big change in power and it is maxing out the 2.5bar TMAP sensor according to Terry@BMS: It looks like there might be more in it. The curve isn't the prettiest and it pretty much is all about gains down low with peak horsepower coming in the mid-range and falling off toward redline. A turbo upgrade might do this car wonders.
    17 replies | 700 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-15-2017, 03:32 AM
    Hill climb events take huge balls. You better be perfect as there is little room for error. Especially when you are going for a record run. The Pikes Peak International Hill Climb is perhaps the most well known hill climb in the world and it has taken several lives. The mountain almost added another victim but despite the driver misjudging the corner and careening off the edge with flip after flip he managed to walk away. Never skimp on a cage or safety equipment or else you may not be so lucky. Aftermath of the car:
    9 replies | 1440 view(s)
  • TwistedTuning's Avatar
    03-27-2017, 10:06 PM
    Twisted Tuning's N54 Direct port Meth Injection Conversion Kit is an affordable and most durable option on the market for your N54 (N55 coming soon) for those enthusiasts that already have a meth injection system (whether in the chargepipe or Throttle body) and want to convert their system over to the PROVEN best method of secondary fluid injection. Link To Purchase: Made from CNC 6061 T6 Aluminum stock machined to spec with tight tolerances. Kit Includes: -Direct Port Plate -Lengthened mounting Studs and associated hardware -Gaskets -Tapped for 1/8th NPT Meth nozzles -6 Hypersonic Meth Nozzles w/holders and checkvalves -Fluid Distribution Block (main meth feed line connects to this to disperse fluid flow to 6 ports) -10 feet of 1/4" nylon hose -Anti-Siphon Solenoid Upgrade -Nine 1/4" push-lock fittings ***For other than 1/8th NPT port tapping please inquire ahead of time by emailing us at: so that we can discuss and try to accommodate your needs*** Direct Port injection is the best way for secondary injection of any fuel. Whether you are using the injection for cooling or for supplemental fueling to the Factory DI system. Direct port injection alleviates the worry for fluid distribution issues well known to the N54. **Nozzle mounting is located on the bottom side of the plate when mounted** **Plate is 25mm in thickness with thick runner bridges which prevents any warping from heat cycling and to promote a constant sealing surface to reduce chances of leaks**
    16 replies | 475 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-14-2017, 07:42 PM
    The year of the N55 continues. BimmerBoost covered the Big Boost Turbo N55 turbo upgrade option last month. They certainly are showing impressive numbers with over 620 horsepower to the wheels on the stock internal N55 motor. They are ready to push forward to the next level though with a built motor option with the goal of 800+ horsepower to the wheels. Here are their built motor options: Stage 3.4 will have options of 6564 or 6768 turbochargers Stage 3.5 will go with a 6968 turbocharger. Ok, that sounds good but saying you will do something and doing it is completely different. Thus far, we have yet to see built motor N55's making big power although that does not mean it will not happen. Hopefully @Juan@Big_Boost_turbo will share more details (along with an improved web presence) but 2017 should deliver the most powerful N55's the BMW aftermarket has ever seen.
    12 replies | 1162 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-10-2017, 07:22 PM
    We all knew this was just a matter of time. APR is absolutely killing it with their Stage III+ setup on the MKVII Golf platform. Just last month we saw them hit 474 horsepower to the wheels with a MKVII Golf GTI on 93 octane pump gas. This Golf R result is even more impressive. Why? Because they top 500 horsepower using a Golf R which means power is sent to all four wheels. Peak output is 529 horsepower and 470 lb-ft of torque on a conservative Mustang dyno and the pulls are very consistent: 264.5 wheel horsepower per liter, phenomenal. APR's Stage III+ is the real deal. 528 AWHP / 466 AWFTLBS - Run 1 528 AWHP / 468 AWFTLBS - Run 2 529 AWHP / 470 AWFTLBS - Run 3 APR Stage 3+ 104 Octane (EFR7163R Turbo System) APR ECU APR 3+ Fueling APR Intake APR Intercooler APR 300 Cell Catalyst APR Built Engine Aftermarket Clutch Aftermarket Catback
    18 replies | 599 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-21-2017, 02:32 AM
    This is great news considering basically every tuner PorscheBoost has spoken to is saying the 991.2 Carrera ECU's are proving problematic. GIAC apparently solved the encryption but the ECU needs to be shipped to them in order to be programmed. GIAC claims gains of 85 crank horsepower and 105 lb-ft of torque. The problem is they do not provide raw dyno graphs but just give us these crank overlays (which we do not want): What is going on here GIAC? Just show us the raw graph at the wheels as you do on every previous release. Until we get a graph, we'll have to take GIAC's word for the gains with their correction factor applied but the 991.2 Carrera S is picking up 100 lb-ft of torque and almost 100 horsepower tune only. They also only are supporting the Carrera S at this time with 991.2 Carrera and GTS support to follow.
    18 replies | 361 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-21-2017, 11:26 PM
    GAD Motors produces some incredible Mercedes-AMG builds and products. Unfortunately, documentation is not their strong suit and dyno runs as well as information on their builds are hard to come by. This particular C207 E-Class coupe gets an M157 swap. Mercedes-AMG regrets not building an E63 AMG Coupe for the C207 generation. GAD Motors steps in to fix that. The M157 gets forged internals and a displacement bump from 5.5 liters to 5.8. As far as further details, GAD Motors doesn't provide any. They refer to this as their 'Stage VIP' level which is another way of saying you better have a ton of money. They certainly provide a good amount of power for whatever it is the build costs. They hit 1049 horsepower and 1050 lb-ft of torque at the crank: You can see an acceleration video of the car below although it is not on the race gas tune in the above dyno run: Certainly quick although it doesn't quite look like 900+ horsepower. It would be great to see what it runs in kill mode in the 1/4 mile although the owner probably isn't one of those people who cares about providing data. An impressive engine swap and build regardless.
    14 replies | 524 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-16-2017, 11:41 PM
    The N55 is having a good 2017 as the amount of turbo kit upgrade options continues to expand. DOC Race is well known on BimmerBoost for their N54 turbo package but also throughout the aftermarket for a variety of platforms. They are now tackling the N55 engine. This top mount kit is roughly 8 weeks away. Pricing is not available just yet but as you can see this takes some skill as it is a tight fit. Let's take a look at the manifold: Looks good, right? Let's look at some more details: BimmerBoost will bring you pricing details and dyno graphs as soon as we have them.
    10 replies | 907 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-09-2017, 08:42 PM
    As this is a tuned car against a stock car the result is not really surprising. For those with a tuned F80 M3 wondering if they can dispatch the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio they can rest easy. The M3 spanks it and traps 10 miles per hour higher. What this tells us though is that a stock M3 will have its hands full with the Giulia. Its 2.9 liter V6 output is very close to the S55 3.0 I6 in the M3. Stock versus stock would be great to see for context and no doubt we will be seeing many more M3 vs. Giulia races in the future.
    10 replies | 1001 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-25-2017, 10:54 PM
    BoostAddict member @The Ghost took his C6 Z06 to TX2K17 and had a bit of fun. His Z06 has upgraded heads, an aftermarket cam, intake, and is tuned on E85 ethanol. The car is in the ~600 whp range and definitely is making efficient use of its power. The first video has the Z06 run a single turbo N54 said to have a GT35R turbocharger. The Z06 dispatches it rather easily. Up next is another Z06 with a cam and bolt ons plus a 150 shot. Surprisingly, this Z06 has trouble until the bottle pressure is up at which point there is a good run between the two. This nitrous setup needs to be dialed in a bit better. A bolt on ZL1 LSA tries its luck next. The driver is either asleep or that car is a waste of gas. The second video below has more runs. First up is a second generation CTS-V LSA with bolt ons on E85. Not much of a race. Next up is a Honda S2000 with a Precision 6766 turbocharger. This is a light package that should be strong on the highway. It isn't. Another 335i joins in and possibly is single turbo. If so, it's time for a bigger turbo or a better setup. A GT350 Mustang tries its luck next. Suffice it say, time for boost. The final run is a ZL1 LSA with bolt ons and it holds off the Z06 when given the hit. A follow up run has the Z06 pull pretty easily. Overall, this is a very stout C6 Z06 for the mods stated.
    11 replies | 653 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-02-2017, 09:43 PM
    If you thought all you had to worry about when buying your new Ferrari was the odometer possibly being rolled back, think again. This is simply inexplicable. Odometers being rolled back to inflate values is just plain greed. What you see here is negligence/incompetence. Who the hell does this? Why? The vehicle being a new Ferrari isn't even the main emphasis. No car of any kind should be left outside with the windows down when it is snowing. If you were planning on buying a silver 488 GTB from Ferrari of Alberta, work in a large discount by showing them these photos. Maybe just skip the car entirely as who knows what else they did with if they do not care enough to roll the windows up.
    16 replies | 263 view(s)
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